The Black Gendarme is the name given to the large rock barrier that sits astride the South East Ridge of Makalu (8463m), the world’s 5th highest mountain. In September 2014 an ascent of this 10km long knife-edged ridge was the objective for our 8-man tri-service expedition, which included 3 members of the Reserves.
After months of preparation and training we flew from Heathrow to Kathmandu in early September. Like many developing cities, Kathmandu is dusty and crowded. Filled with people, cars, motorbikes and mopeds, the voices and horns combine to create an almighty racket, pausing only for brief respite during the middle of the sweltering night. Not staying in the most luxurious of hotels, some of the team complained of being eaten during the night whilst others found that the dribble from the shower heads was not quite what they had been hoping for as their last shower for almost two months! Eager to get to the mountain we remained in the city only long enough to complete our pre-expedition admin tasks.
After a short internal flight to the airstrip at Tumlingtar (400m), we began the 10-day approach trek to the mountain. It being the monsoon season we were easy to spot with our brightly coloured umbrellas, sheltering beneath them as we walked through the jungle which ominously had the word “leeches” printed over it on the maps! We spent a night finding leeches hidden in our socks and cleaning the resulting blood loss. Leaving behind the jungle and leeches, the surroundings becoming more mountainous as we ascended towards our base camp, which at an altitude of 4860m was higher than the tallest mountains in the European Alps. Unfortunately rain and low cloud prevented our seeing our objective until arrival at Base Camp, but it was a sight worth waiting for. Surrounded by peaks, all above 6500m, the sweeping South East Ridge of Makalu towered above the camp.
For 3 days the delayed arrival of our mountain equipment meant that we contented ourselves with acclimatisation walks, albeit we ascended to nearly 6000m. However, once the kit had arrived, the team, including our Sherpas, began moving higher, stocking camps and acclimating as we went. Throughout the ascent we were treated to stunning views of the mountains of Tibet and up the valley towards Mount Everest. Morning sunrises blossomed over the shoulders of the other giant peaks turning the snow pink, orange and finally red before the warming rays picked up tendrils of water vapour which glistened in the still air.
After several weeks on the mountain, we had camps established up to 7200m. A positive weather forecast for several days supported our plans for a summit bid and summit teams were chosen. Whilst moving up to Camp 2, the altitude slowed our progress and we were caught in storm force winds and driving spindrift, arriving at the end of the fixed ropes in the dark. In our fatigued state the tents were not instantly locatable and the prospect of spending a night exposed to the elements seemed very real. Fortunately, some 30 minutes later we found them and were bedding in for the night. The following day 2 members set out as the summit team, reaching Camp 3 late in the day with some assistance from the Sherpa's. The plan was to ascend directly up to Camp 4 (c7500m) the next day and then push lightweight for the summit. Unfortunately at the first attempt insufficient rope was carried to reach Camp 4 and after a long day the team were forced to descend to Camp 3. Ever optimistic, another attempt was launched the following day, reaching the intended site of Camp 4 (7550m). However, the Sherpas had not managed to lift all of the required stores to support a summit push and once again the team were forced to descend.
With winds at 8000m forecast to be above 70 mph and temperatures routinely below minus 25, there was no time for a further summit attempt. Extremely fatigued we stripped the mountain before beginning the journey back to Tumlingtar. With a dusting of snow on the ground and in much colder conditions we completed the trek out in half the time, all too soon back in the noise and bustle of Kathmandu.
The South East Ridge of Makalu remains unclimbed in its entirety, but thanks to the support of the Ulysses Trust, we were able to give it a real go. Despite not reaching the summit all 3 members of the Reserves achieved personal altitude records.
Chris Andrews
